Sean: äºå¸¸
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Wed Jan 23 21:59:43 EST 2008
Posted by Sean:
äºå¸¸
http://whiteperil.com/posts/1201143578.shtml
If you know Japanese, Taipei can be a really frustrating city. Reading
literature, all the way up to the beginning of the Showa Period,
generally requires you to know the traditional forms of kanji--at
least at first. But modern pocket additions, while not otherwise
abridged or bowlderized, frequently use the official Japanese
simplified forms, so you get used to not having to recognize the older
characters. It took me several days to remember that é» is, in fact,
ç¹. (Well, I didn't remember so much as realize that a crawl inside a
subway car that said çµé» wasn't likely to mean anything else.)
Amritas used to tell me that you didn't really know an Asian language
with a Chinese-derived script until you'd started with the traditional
stroke-choked characters. He was right, I suppose, at least in terms
of transferrable skills.
Something you notice right away traveling around Taipei: it's a very
pious city. I'm not referring to the people (though they may be as
devout as they come for all I know). I mean the place names. Streets
in Japan don't usually have names--don't get me started on the
resulting headaches involved in trying to get somewhere for the first
time--and blocks, train stations, and intersections are often named
for a nearby landmark. Otherwise, they tend to be named for things in
nature: Greenleaf, Middle River, Wisteria Mountain, and the like.
In Taipei, many of the major east-west arteries are named for
Confucian virtues. My office is on å¿ åè·¯ ("Loyalty and Filial Piety
Avenue"). On the way, we pass ä»æè·¯ ("Humaneness and Love Avenue").
There's a place between my friend's apartment and our office called
æå¾³ ("limpid moral probity," though as in Japan I guess it may refer
to an era or exalted personage or something). I'm not sure I can
handle quite that much uplift so early in the day, even after my
second cup of coffee.
And I'm pretty certain that having a Catholic mother disqualifies me
from working on a street called "Filial Piety."
Taipei is also significantly slower-paced than Tokyo. I was listening
to [1]Roisin Murphy the other day on a run. Perfect soundtrack to
Tokyo but all wrong here. Taipei isn't brittle and frantic and
electronic. It's not a mountain hamlet, either, but even the center of
the city doesn't press in on you. I'm not sure how well that suits me;
I like my cities to be cities. On the other hand, my friend's
apartment (where I'm staying) is in the north of the city on a
mountain road, so hiking and hot springs and things are right out the
door. That part's not bad at all, and it's helpful given all the bulky
Western food I've been hoovering up since I got here. (American food
is much better in Taipei than in Tokyo.)
Ack. Time to hie myself to the Straight Path of Loyalty and Filial
Piety for the day.
References
1. http://www.amazon.com/Overpowered-R%C3%B3is%C3%ADn-Murphy/dp/B000UN1CWM
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