[whataretheysaying] Mary Madigan: Good Morning Beirut 2
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Thu Dec 21 17:30:51 EST 2006
Posted by Mary Madigan:
Good Morning Beirut 2
http://whataretheysaying.powerblogs.com/posts/1166739162.shtml
A few weeks ago A few weeks ago, [1]Michael Totten sent out a call to
some bloggers asking if they'd like to join him in Beirut. He said it
wasn't so bad there, at least not as bad as it sounded in the news. A
couple of bloggers took him up on the offer, myself included.
My husband, who had [2]inadvertenly wandered into a time of political
unrest during a business trip to Venuzuela told me the most important
things to remember were:
1. travel with someone who knows the area
2. avoid streets blocked by police or burning tires.
I went because always wanted to see Lebanon and this would be an
interesting time to see it. Also, I've been writing about terrorism
and terrorist groups for years, but I've never come into direct
contact with them. Here was an opportunity to see one of the more
powerful 'militant' groups face to face.
Orbitz didn't offer flights to Beirut, so I used kayak.com to book a
flight to Lebanon via Frankfurt airport. If you ever have an
opportunity to do a long layover in Frankfurt, avoid it at all costs -
the internet access is slow and expensive, the phones don't work and
there are not enough places to sit down, even if you do choose to pay
exhorbitant rates for cafe or restaurant spots.
However, if you get stuck there for a long period of time, there is
one spot of joy in that sea of overpriced wurtz and German 'service' -
a place where you can take a long, hot shower for 6 euros. It's on the
second floor, Terminal 1, Departures Hall B.
[3]frankfurt airport
Waiting in Frankfurt
I arrived in Lebanon at around 1 in the morning, Sunday the 10th, the
day of the second mass rally in downtown Beirut. The taxi driver
assumed I was a journalist, filled me in on the current political
situation, and offered to take me on a tour of Hezbollah controlled
Southern Beirut. I was a little wary of the offer since he had pointed
out Nasrallah's photo with a comment like 'There's the man'. He also
overcharged me for the ride. But I did take his card.
On the morning of Over breafast in a french cafe that, patrons and
all, could have easily been located on the boulevard St. St Germain in
Paris, we watched flag carrying protesters walking past the tanks and
soldiers lining the streets. Walking down the streets, watching
orange-flag carrying Christian Aounists drive by, I nearly jumped when
a robotic flower shop Santa behind me shouted "Merry Christmas!"
[4]cafe march
watching the coup from the cafe
The streets in East Beirut are decorated with tinsel and posters of
journalist and politicians killed by [most likely Syrian] car bombs.
The mall rivals anything Paramus can offer, but they check each bag
before you can enter any store. The normally full cafes are empty on
nights after the protests, not because people fear what others will do
if things get stirred up - they fear what they themselves will do.
Nearly everyone wants to avoid civil war, nearly everyone wants to do
the things most urbanites do - make lots of money and complain about
the traffic. It's a place that would probably look like Italy on a
very sunny, crime-free day; if it weren't for the troublesome
neighbors.
I was expecting the massive rally to be a gathering of black-robed
radicals screaming 'Death to America, Death to Israel", shaking their
fists in rage. Instead, I found women, some vieled, some not,
families, kids and balloons. If you ignored the inflammatory content,
the threats and the incitement in the speechess, the whole group was
similar to the Million Mom march.
I walked among the crowd with my camera, my entire appearance just
screaming 'foreign journalist', but no one seemed to mind my presence.
In fact, the guys with earphones and walkie talkies made a special
effort to be sure I got photographs of the sizable crowd. There were
lots of these 'handlers' and they managed the crowd very efficiently.
[5]boys at the march
[6]boy at the march
Kids asked me to take their pictures.
[7]men at march
These men asked me, in French, to take their photo.
[8]women march
[9]woman shouting
The sunny atmosphere of Sundayâs march was a great contrast to the
ambiance of the semi-permanent tent city downtown, later on that week.
When I visited the outer edges of the tent city, the atmosphere was
less Million mom march, more like the South Bronx, 1985.
These are the day-trippers. Many who arrived by bus were looking
around as if it were their first day in the big city
[10]aounists
The people with the orange flags are Aounists, Christians who have
joined with Hezbollah for political gain. They donât share Hezbollahâs
ideology at all, and they have a history of being vehemently
anti-Syria.
[11]santa hats
Their alliance with Hezbollah shows that people will join with
terrorist groups purely for political gain. These Christians, with
their orange santa hats, are obviously not motivated by promises of
Sharia law, a worldwide Caliphate or 72 virgins.
[12]man tueni
As I was walking home, a man tapped on my shoulder and asked me to
take his picture. He held up a picture of Gebran Tueni, an anti-Syrian
Lebanese journalist who was killed by a car bomb. The Syrians and
their Lebanese allies were suspects in the bombing.
The man, whose English wasnât very good, pointed to the Aounists in
Orange and said âBadâ. He then pointed to Tueni and said âGoodâ
Sometimes language limitations lead to an "occam's razor" simplicity -
his analysis was the simplest and the best.
References
1. http://www.michaeltotten.com/
2. http://www.whataretheysaying.org/archives/000799.html
3. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-frankfurtmed.jpg
4. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-cafemarchmed2.jpg
5. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-boysmed.jpg
6. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-boymed.jpg
7. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-menflagmed.jpg
8. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-womenflagsmed.jpg
9. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-womanyell.jpg
10. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-carflagsmed.jpg
11. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-marchershats.jpg
12. file://localhost/files/whataretheysaying-DSC_3136.JPG
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